year, at another trip to Red Rocks. Good weather, easy access,
long moderate routes, so ever since Glen has moved there I have
made it into a yearly trip destination. It also fits very well
with the 4-5 day windows that I can free up, so away I go again.
a chance to climb with Victor, and our first day was affected
by his getting in quite late on Thu night, after Vegas airport
was closed for about 3 hours due to high winds.
FriWe did Myster Z, on Jackrabbit Buttress. Victor did not enjoy
it very much, even though he got to lead the best pitch (p4).
Unfortunately he also got the last pitch which was very run out
on less than great rock.
the route was OK, and worth doing once. I thought we might have
enough time to do a route on Brownstone Wall, but we weren't fast
enough for that.
got together with Ben and Glen, the next morning at First Creek
Canyon trailhead. The stated objective was the 10 pitch Hot Flash,
done as two teams of two. It turned into one team of three, as
VIctor bailed on the climb after the approach, wanting to avoid
an epic and save energy for the next day.
climb was just great, and the descent not too bad (~2hrs).
note on the descent is we complicated things by doing the first
two rappels on a single instead of double rope. In retrospect
it would be easy enough to get retrieve a stuck rope in those
spots, so IMO double rope would go.
were back at the car before dark.
epic hence. We had been moving through a number of interesting
features on the first half of the climb, culminating with the
full rope crack pitch on p6. That pitch is as good as it looks
in all the photos of the climb.
climbing is interesting, but never too hard or sustained. We were
able to climb all the pitches with the two followers climbing
in parallel, hence the good pace.
only minor hiccup had to do with the placement of the last (p
10) belay, where Ben stretched out the ropes all the way close
to the crux. Then he set up a not so great anchor. Glen and I
climbed to an alternate stance about half way up the rope, anchored
there and sent Ben on to finish the pitch (and climb).
last four pitches are considerably easier, and have been said
to detract from the climb. They go very fast, so no big deal.
The last pitch crux (5.7) was actually pretty fun, and a good
way to end things.
got all the leads the next day on Dark Shadows. This climb had
been on his tick list for a while, and did not disappoint.
not do much else afterward, since Victor had to catch his flight.
He took the rental car back at the airport and I waited for the
second team to get back from the climb, and caught a ride back
into town with them.
Glen's blog for his story
of the day. We got there before them, and thus were ahead
in line (2d team that day). After rapping off, and getting our
ropes wet - of course - we got a chance to watch Glen lead the
last two pitches. We were wondering about his progess leading
the 4th pitch, and it turns out he was stopping to take pictures
on lead -:)
Mon, we finished with another foray into Black Velvet Canyon.
Did not move quite as well on Sour Mash, and bailed after the
first four pitches. Seems to be a pattern for us, as on DWOT the
previous time. Maybe we should tackle Black Velvet Canyon before
we climb 3 days in a row ...
got a good number of leads under his belt on this trip, and actually
made the commitment to buy a rack. Hopefully a sign of more adventures