Previous Trip
Next Trip

More Red Rocks

I was able to set up another trip to Vegas, with the same cast of characters, for a few days in Nov.

This year the weather was gorgeous, and both Ben and Glen were climbing really strong. The first day we went into Black Velvet for an ascent of Frogland. It was great climbing as advertised, every pitch was interesting. Luckily we were the 2d party on the route, and the first party let us pass them on the last pitch after we returned 2 of their nuts.

The crowding on Frogland was as advertised, and we had another party on our heels at every belay after p3. Out of the 17 cars at the canyon (on Sat) half the parties were on this route and folks were still starting up when we retrieved our pack from the base (@ 1:30 pm).

After coming down, we hit Cannibal Crag, were Ben got a great 11b onsight of the classic arete climb there

Next day we got on Frigidaire Buttress, a great climb in Icebox Canyon which follows cracks and chimney systems between large ledges.

It took us longer than expected, and at the end we thought we might get a ticket (having not called for a late exit pass). We finished the rappels in the dark, after some interesting fumbling to find one of the rap stations (slings were quite well camouflaged). and Ben ended up getting a nasty gash on his shin when running back to the car ahead of us. Glen and I did some bushwacking to get back to the base of the climb.

Here is Glen on p2 of Dream of Wild Turkeys, with the soaring upper corners of Epinephrine up in the sunlight. That wall is amazing.

We ended up rapping off after p4, due to a lens popping off Glen's glasses. See pic below. Had to deal with a stuck rope on top of that, but all is well when it ends well.

Nearing the belay on the traverse pitch of Dream of Wild Turkeys (5.10a)

I french freed through the 10a sections, so we could go faster. All in all, our system of having two seconds climb concurrently worked pretty well, we would only slow down at the crux sections.

That whole wall is amazing, the climbing, the exposure, the views. Must go back.

On getaway day, Ben and I snuck in a few climbs at the Gallery before catching our respective planes.



On the traverse pitch of Dream of Wild Turkeys (5.10a) Glen Tsie, lensless after the crux pitch of Dream of Wild Turkeys (5.10a) Looking up at the crux moves on p4 of Dream of Wild Turkeys (5.10a)


List of Climbs

  • Ma and Pa Kettle (5.7) (Canibal Crag)
  • A Man in Every Pot (5.8) (Canibal Crag)
  • Mac and Ronnie in Cheese (5.9) (Canibal Crag)
  • Frogland (5.8 ***) 6p
  • Frigidaire Buttress (5.9 ***) 7p
  • Dream of Wild Turkeys (5.10a ***) first 4p only
  • Sport Climbing is Neither 5.9 (Gallery)
  • Buck's Muscle World 5.9 (Gallery)
  • Gelatin Pooch 5.10a (Gallery)

Previous Trip
Next Trip