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I was
able to set up another trip to Vegas, with the same cast of characters,
for a few days in Nov.
This
year the weather was gorgeous, and both Ben and Glen were climbing
really strong. The first day we went into Black Velvet for an
ascent of Frogland. It was great climbing as advertised, every
pitch was interesting. Luckily we were the 2d party on the route,
and the first party let us pass them on the last pitch after we
returned 2 of their nuts.
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The
crowding on Frogland was as advertised, and we had another party
on our heels at every belay after p3. Out of the 17 cars at the
canyon (on Sat) half the parties were on this route and folks
were still starting up when we retrieved our pack from the base
(@ 1:30 pm).
After
coming down, we hit Cannibal Crag, were Ben got a great 11b onsight
of the classic arete climb there
Next day we got on
Frigidaire Buttress, a great climb in Icebox Canyon which follows
cracks and chimney systems between large ledges.
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It
took us longer than expected, and at the end we thought we might
get a ticket (having not called for a late exit pass). We finished
the rappels in the dark, after some interesting fumbling to find
one of the rap stations (slings were quite well camouflaged).
and Ben ended up getting a nasty gash on his shin when running
back to the car ahead of us. Glen and I did some bushwacking to
get back to the base of the climb.
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Here is Glen on p2
of Dream of Wild Turkeys, with the soaring upper corners of Epinephrine
up in the sunlight. That wall is amazing.
We ended up rapping
off after p4, due to a lens popping off Glen's glasses. See pic
below. Had to deal with a stuck rope on top of that, but all is
well when it ends well.
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I french
freed through the 10a sections, so we could go faster. All in
all, our system of having two seconds climb concurrently worked
pretty well, we would only slow down at the crux sections.
That whole
wall is amazing, the climbing, the exposure, the views. Must go
back.
On getaway
day, Ben and I snuck in a few climbs at the Gallery before catching
our respective planes.
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