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Cannon - 2005

After following the crux on the Pipes Pitch. Tricky. I had not been on a trip for a while, and not even climbing that much at the Gunks. But Ben and I took a trip to New Hampshire. Bright and early after the long drive from NYC, we got on the Whitney-Gillman route. Cannon Cliff is loose, see talus in the adjacent photo - top of Pipes Pitch - and we planned on doing it on a weekday, and being the first ones on the route. Good idea, and we found beautiful climbing on every pitch:
  • p1 goes at 5.7 on the alternate start, followed by more nice cracks
  • p2 goes at 5.8 on the hand crack variation, followed by the Pipe pitch, Ben combined pitches and belayed at the top of the Pipe pitch
  • p3 goes at 5.6 mostly mellow climbing with some very exposed moves on the arete
  • p4 is supposedly 5.7 but the overhang seemed a lot harder

The climbing went quickly, so we were back to our car before noon. We got on Consolation Prize, and retreated after one (?) pitch due to route finding difficulties, and some rock fall from above. Just after we were off some very serious rock fall came down, we think triggered by climbers on the Lakeview route which traverses above. We quickly ran away from the cliff, for too close a call.

These routes are all on the part of the cliff affected by the collapse of the Old Man. Some of the Web beta for Cannon implies the climbing on that side is still reasonable, but that may be outdated. We later found out two of the upper pitches of Consolation Prize had been erased by rock fall.

We were going to do Moby Grape the next day, but it threatened to rain. We passed on Rumney and went to Cathedral.


List of Climbs

  • Whitney-Gillman (5.8 ***) 4p
  • Consolation Prize (5.8) p1 only

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